Mango blossom, too, is sometimes used in perfumery: as sweetly floral as youd imagine these soft white flowers to be, with a breath of lily of the valley about them. Creed Jasmal (We also list this ingredient under E, for Everlasting Flower) All refer to small herb, which somehow manages to thrive in the most inhospitable, rocky, sun-baked zones in southern Europe; its yellow flowers stay incredibly bright, even after theyve been dried. Crabtree & Evelyn Wisteria The whole tanning process smells repulsive, though, so leathers were treated with oils, musk, civet and ambergris, to mask the smell of the animals skins. OriflameMirage. Givenchy LInterdit Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely Outside perfumery, the resins a handy herbal remedy good for everything from bronchitis and coughs to healing wounds and scars. (For more about violet leaf, though, which smells green and aquatic, click here.) ), and originally native to the Mediterranean. Este Lauder Beautiful So why use tolu at all? One fine day, in perfumery heaven, we will all smell and enjoy cinnamon in heavy doses: Until then, we have to life with the regulations that we have', Dior Dioressence But they look fresh, and cheerful, and uplift the spirit and in fragrance marketing, thats can be a useful allusion. Theyre both from the small white flowers that blossom on the bitter orange tree (Citrus aurantia) - which is much more fragrant than the orange tree which produces the fruit for eating. Carolina HerreraAmber Desire Chanel Coco Vince Camuto Divina. Caron Nocturnes Sarah McCartney of 4160 Tuesdays shared her thoughts with us on mandarin: 'Its childhood Christmases for me. At least thats what I believe. Yardley April Violets. No one outside perfumery knows what it smells like by itself because to blends to beautifully with other materials. Comme des Garons Odeur 53 (Or rather, lots of members: there are thousands of varieties of Malus domestica, a tree originating in Asia). If you smell different concentrated absolutes (the oily liquids created through macerating the jasmine flowers), they have their own characters: some smell medicinal, some sweet, some musky, some green. Known as the carnal flower (Roja Dove also calls it the harlot of perfumery), tuberoses blooms are so powerful that just a few stems can fill a room with their headiness, pumping out their scent for days or even weeks. Luxe perfumery Fragrance Du Bois works with CITES - an organisation tasked with protecting endangered animals and plants - to monitor its use of agarwood (commonly known as oud, it's often the. Orange blossom and neroli are a bit confusing, as ingredients. Its no surprise that freesias are favourite flowers, for many of us: these delicate, multi-coloured flowers smell so radiantly sweet and airy, with an almost nose-tingling freshness and a hint of citrus in there somewhere, too. Davidoff Cool Water Woman Credit: Credo Beauty. Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan Were generally not so familiar with the flowers which arent any help to perfumers at all but arent they gorgeous? Yves Saint Laurent La Collection Yvresse, The sacred herb;, the Romans called it and pretty sacred sage is, too, to perfumers. But if the Christmas trees the most familiar member of the pine family, its just one of 115 varieties that grow mostly in the Northern hemisphere. A plant collector (who went by the equally glorious German name Christian Friedrich Ecklon) honoured his friend by calling the flower (which originated in Africa) freesia. ), Goutal Quel Amour Meo FusciuniNotturno, Lime blossom (a.k.a. Jo Malone London Lime, Basil & Mandarin (Which was one of the four sacred plants of the Native American culture, alongside squash, corn and beans.) Sisley Eau du Soir. Guerlain Chamade ), The Polianthes tuberose plant is related to the lily - you can almost tell that, from smelling it. Figs become an incredibly fashionable fragrance note for both men and women, lately, with its complex mix of bitter green and milky-sweet elements, conjuring up languid lunches in the shade of fig trees in hot, sunny places. Caron Tubereuse Bay laurel is evergreen (where would our gardens be without it? Goutal Eau dHadrien, Pink pepper is now a hot perfume ingredient (in several senses): bright, cheerful, with a woody-rosy scent thats quite different to the nose-tingling spicy warmth of the more-familiar black pepper. Juliette Has A Gun Miss Charming Michael Kors Michael Kors Whats a staple ingredient of bread and cakes doing in perfumes? Jimmy Choo Jimmy Choo Issey Miyake Pleats Please Creed Bois de Cedrat Nez Nez Atelier dArtiste Both are lovely, but the poodle mostly just hops and jumps. Byredo La Tulipe (Its been called the scent of the 60s, because the essential oil was often worn neat on the skin of music-loving, party-loving and sometimes drug-loving youth.) According to the Bible, fig leaves preserved the modesty of Adam and Eve. He was so taken with the smell of scented gloves that he asked Creed to make it into a fragrance and you can still smell that today, Boadicea the Victorious Complex (The perfumes creator is on record as saying that without ylang-ylang in the formula, he couldnt have used such a high dose of the champagne-like aldehydes that give No. Used as a less-expensive alternative to vanilla, although has become popular on its own. Maison Francis Kurkdjian la rose Tom Ford Violet Blonde. Guerlain Eau de Lit For centuries, the essential oil of bergamot has had a close link to perfumery and scent, even used to scent small papier-mch boxes for keeping small precious mementos - like locks of hair and love letters. Maison Francis KurkdjianAPOM Pour Femme, How did the tangerine get its name? You can smell scents featuring ink on their fragrance pyramid and be right back there in the classroom, getting a whiff from your inky fingers. Here, meanwhile, isperfumer Andy Tauer's unexpected take on using tobacco notes in his creations, which he shared with The Perfume Society. Dior Dolce Vita Herms 24 Faubourg Queen Rihanna's favorite fragrance comes from Kilian's lineupso you know it's good. It smells like cinnamon. Jennifer Lopez Glow Unable to marry him due to her divine nature, she transformed herself into a plant that would provide pleasure and happiness that plant was the Vanilla vine. Gardenia gets its name from the US botanist Dr. Alexander Garden, and grows naturally in the Far East, India and China. . Ralph Lauren Polo Sport Woman When hawthorn blooms, you know springs here. Carolina Herrera 212 Notes reminiscent of this favourite beverage from the dried leaves of Camellia sinensis (seen in our photo growing on plantation slopes) - have made their way into quite a few sheer, uplifting fragrance creations in recent years, a trend kickstarted by Bulgaris Eau Parfume au Th Vert. Weve been known to stand there, sniffing, for the sheer pleasure of it. Prada Candy Prada LArtisan Parfumeur Jatamansi Vera Wang Princess Night, The powdery sweetness of lilacs fill the air in suburban streets and parks in late spring: short-lived, but utterly beautiful, with their pollen-y, jasmine-like softness, and tantalising hints of almond and roses. Actually, the discovery of these synthetics by two German chemists, Tiemann and Krger was a breakthrough moment in perfumery, changing the face of modern perfumery. Certainly no hot-blooded Roman, homesick for a city where rosewater bubbled through the fountains, awnings soaked in rose oil shielded VIPs in public amphitheatres from the baking sun, pillows and mattresses were stuffed with rosepetals (the better to propel the weary towards dreamland) and where rose garlands were the ultimate Roman must-have status symbol. (Erotic postscript: in the tantric rite of the Five Essentials, saffron was applied to the females feet), The plant itself Crocus sativus, from the iris family - was introduced into Europe in the 7th Century, after the conquest of Spain; by the 16th Century, English saffron was prized as the best in the world, grown in large quantities around Saffron Waldon (which is how come that town got its name). This flowering shrub pulses out its potent scent very powerfully, in its native west Africa. Beeswax also works brilliantly as a fixative, helping to anchor will-o-the-wisp, volatile notes. Donna Karan Cashmere Mist Ethyl acetate Sweet solvent derived from wine. The note has a mystical air to it: in the language of plants, its been linked with prosperity, fidelity, virtue and positivity. (Not only was black pepper ground onto food, though: it found its way into spells and was used as an amulet to protect against disease and other threats. But it also reveals a soft yet surprising bitterness, when you taste it. 'When you smell it, you can almost feel it smarting on your tongue'. A chemical aroma described as a smooth, woody, amber note with a velvet-like sensation. Fragonard Fragonard You can easily improve your search by specifying the number of letters in the answer. The history of incense itself goes back thousands of years in fact, the first perfumes were burned, not worn: perfume actually gets its name from per fumum, or through smoke. Valentino Donna Acqua Apparently, this got its name from the way it manages to smell like a combination of cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg sweet and dry, all at once. (Some people think it smells like crushed ivy leaves. Roja Parfums Risqu It is the most natural musk sensuality," says perfumer Pascal Gaurin. ), Other ingredients, too like extracts of ambrette seed, galbanum and angelica root can also deliver a musky sensuality to a perfume. Perfume Reviews. By Kilian Bamboo Harmony It comes from a shrub called Commiphora and smells warm, ambery, aromatic, resinous, balsamic and sensual. In perfumery, the most useful iris plants are Iris Pallida (mauve in colour), Iris Germanica (strong purple) and Iris Florentina (white flowers). [1] Of these 3,059 ingredients, some have evidence linking them to health effects including cancer, reproductive toxicity, allergies and sensitivities. Jo Malone London Wild Bluebell Chopard Wish Pure Yves Saint Laurent Opium. (In aromatherapy, its a wake-up oil.) Guerlain Samsara Used to impart fullness and subtle strength to fragrances. On its own, though, its sometimes considered almost non-existent which just goes to demonstrate perfumes magical alchemy, and what happens when different ingredients are blended together. Symbolically, honey stands for the sweet life, prosperity, even immortality; the word itself comes from the ancient Hebrew word for enchant When man and bee teamed together, it turned out to be a win-win situation: bees got a safe place to live (and a reliable food source, in the form of flowering crops) and we got to harvest honey and beeswax in unbelievably impressive quantities: a single beehive can produce up to 200 kilos of honey each season. Probably the most famous melon fragrance is Calyx: originally launched under the Prescriptives brand (now a long-lost part of Este Lauder), and newly relaunched by Clinique but with fruity-florals still hotter than a beach in St. Barths, there are plenty of others, Clinique Calyx The leaves, bark, fruits and flowers all offer different nuances: earthy, peppery, fruity, buttery or subtly herbal. Additional information about the fragrance ingredients we use in our products can be found for most items in the U.S. and Canada on the brand website and via SmartLabel . Go to the menu . Chanel Les Exclusifs Cuir de Russie The tall tree native to America, and great for furniture-making incidentally! There are a few scents, yes, which capture the sweet, grassy, earthy warmth of hay, which also has almost animalic qualities. ChloEau de Parfum (Meanwhile, did you that technically, a banana plant is a herb, not a tree? By Kilian Cruel Intentions Yves Saint LaurentParisienne. Floris Honey Oud Dolce & Gabbana Pour Femme Amouage Memoir Woman The seeds - from the fruit of the Dypterix Odorata tree - are black and wrinkled, and when grated give off pleasant aromas of sweet spice, vanilla, praline and almond. Lolita Lempicka Coral Flower Its a harvest for patient souls: juniper berries (which can be blue, red-brown or orange) take three years to ripen, and are steam-distilled to release their pungency. Commonly, ambrette is used as a substitute for true musk. The flowering Vaccinum myrtillus shrub that gives us blueberries is native to north America, but now grown around the world: its nutritious berries arent just delish, theyre packed with health-boosting antioxidants. Thats an evocative name for a fragrance ingredient, if ever we heard one. As it cures in saltwater it becomes gray, hence the name ambergris or gray amber. To the Greeks, it spelled good fortune.) 5, making it one of the first synthetics in fragrance. Today's savvy perfumers, however, are far from the first to recognise thesheer sensual potential of this 'Queen of Flowers'. The leaves and stems can be steam-distilled to produce oils, then, with quite different characters depending on the variety. Tarragon perfume ingredient. Diptyque Ofresia Salts a flavour. Our love of cinnamon dates back thousands of years: 2000 years ago the Egyptians were weaving it into perfumes (though it probably originates way before that, in China). The most celebrated use of bourgeons de cassis has been in Guerlains 1969 perfume, Chamade. Jean Patou 1000 Chanel Coco Chanel No. Thanks to its aromatic edge, youre most likely to be intoxicated by it in shared (or masculine) creations. If someone asks a perfumer what balsamic means, wed hand them a pot of tolu. Britney Spears Fantasy Finished with unexpected touches of vanilla, blueberry, coconut, geranium and patchouli, Fenty Eau de Parfum expresses itself uniquely on each wearer for a on Clarins Eau Dynamisante I am convinced that I can detect a hidden note of car exhaust, modern car, there. Nasomatto Narcotic Venus Donna Karan Black Cashmere Like quite a few flowers, daisys used more for conjuring up an image in a perfume than for the actual smell. Camphor which comes in the form of a white, crystal-like powder - is actually quite popular in Arabic perfumery: its present in a quarter of the legendary formulations from a renowned perfumer known as al-Kindi, as well as being is in widespread therapeutic use: for embalming, as a medicine (see aforementioned chest rub etc. By Kilian Pure Oud Dior Diorissimo France is still the epicentre of production, though: more and 80,000 kilos of lavender are grown each year. Aldehydes triggered a revolution in perfumery. The smell is to attract the type of insect that pollinates the plant: some clearly get off on pretty smells, others on stinkers.). Now, though, theres a way through which is glorious news for chypre-lovers everywhere. Marc Jacobs Oh Lola! Comme des Garons 8 88 But it also works brilliantly as a fixative: around 13% of all perfumes apparently contain at least a trace of frankincense. Those of a certain age will be most familiar with edelweiss as the name of a song crooned by Christopher Plummer in the movie of The Sound of Music. Funnily enough, its not strictly a member of the lily family at all, though it is also symbolically a wedding flower, and also a funeral flower. But a small touch in a feminine structure can be extremely sexy', Byredo M/Mink When I take the lid off and sniff, I cant help letting out a long appreciative mmmmmmmmm. Abundant on the banks of the Nile and in the marshes around the river, its use goes back to the time of the ancient Egyptians: some scrolls still survive from that time, and are still being deciphered by archaeologists. And jasmine. (Hugh de Slincourt wrote that, in The Way Things Happen.). Yves Saint Laurent Manifesto, Rich, floral, green, heady: like burying your nose in springtime itself. Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile Thierrys stroke of genius was to plug the gap with a touch of celery seed, instead. Chances are, though, that the violet in your own perfume and it probably is in your perfume, even if you cant pick it out is synthetic: the chemists Tiemann & Kruger as long ago as 1893 found a way to separate the aroma compounds in violets, which are known as ionones. Benzoin gives body to many perfumes (its especially widely-used in ambres) and is sweetly seductive, very reminiscent of vanilla. But as with many unlikely perfume ingredients, add it in the teensiest dose, and hemlock can add depth and intrigue. Symbolically, olive leaves represent abundance (as well as glory) and thats certainly true of this Mediterranean tree, which is quite a multi-tasker in perfume-terms. In perfumery, apricot can be lush and sweet like the fruit or bitter, like the extract of the apricot kernel (think of an Amaretto-ish bitter almond scent). LArtisan Parfumeur Seville a LAube As they have for thousands of years, these deciduous trees grow (impressively fast) in the Mediterranean and the Middle East although the fig note we smell in contemporary fragrances is actually quite likely to be synthetic, from ingredients which go by the name of stemone (it smells very green, and is produced by the fragrance house Givaudan) and octalactone gamma (more prune-like and sappy). The word licorice (or liquorice) comes from the Old French licoresse, and originally from the Greek meaning sweet root (it really is, if youve ever chewed a licorice stick). Exquisitely exotic, heady, tropical: frangipani is sultry hot nights and sexy, sexy, sexy. The clear, almost colourless oil is steam-distilled from the fresh or partly-dried pods, and the spiciness of the resulting oil goes especially well in Ambre-style perfumes, working well alongside cardamom, bay, coriander, lavender, neroli, orange, petitgrain, mandarin, cedarwood and rosewood. It is dual, it has a multifarious seduction. Bond No. There are a couple of twists on petitgrain: a form known as citronnier is distilled from the leaves of the lemon tree, in Mediterranean areas; as youd imagine, its more yes lemony. (Though it was probably LArtisan Parfumeur Vanilia in which caramel made its sugary debut.) By Kilian A Taste of Heaven Caron Infini Its perfume combinations use extremely rare, high quality, and cherished raw ingredients, making this brand stand prominently in the top league. Miller Harris Cologne 1888 THOO (The House of Oud) Wonderly (Its sometimes spelled opopanax, too, with an a.). Givenchy Amarige While a creative director or brand may be involved in conceptualizing, the nose is the one with the training and expertise to actually combine the precise ingredients- noses often . Dolce & Gabbana The One Diptyque Oyedo ), Chanel Bois des Iles Dior JAdore Guerlain Chant DArome Boadicea the Victorious Invigorating Creed Neroli Sauvage ), FreshCannabis Rose Waxy, grapefruity. Thierry Mugler Angel (In aromatherapy, it dispels tension.) See our brands. Yardley English Lavender, Supermarket and garage forecourt carnations are mostly a huge disappointment because the spicy, clove-y smell you get when burying your nose in a garden-picked bloom is generally missing. The same flowers turned up in delicately-scented puddings, love potions and medicines. Mandarinworks nicely as long as you dont mind its lack of commitment'. Donna Karan DKNY Be Delicious Rum itself dates back to the 17th Century and Caribbean sugar plantations: its distilled from molasses, the dark and syrupy by-product of sugar cane, and when aged in oak barrels takes on deep golden tones, and rich flavours. The juice tastes less sour than lemon, but more bitter than grapefruit which explains why bergamot has become known for its aromatic essential oil, rather than as something we eat for breakfast (Although bergamot is used in Earl Grey tea), Its scent is fruity-sweet with mild spicy hints, and youll encounter it as a top note in compositions within most of the fragrance families male and female. "It has a delicate, elegant, radiant, and floral character, reminiscent of jasmine with citrus freshness, and blends well with all kinds of perfumes. The name, quite simply, comes from the old Tamil words patchai (green) and ellai (leaf). It is more theleather that you expect your gloves to exhale. As a flower, orange blossom has long played a role in weddings: maidens have carried it in bouquets and woven it into bridal headdresses since the time of the Crusaders, when trees were brought from the East to Europe, and began to flourish here. Acqua di Stresa Acqua di Stresa Sprinkled in the footprints of a lover, its said to keep them from wandering. Linum usitatissimum): it gives us both linen and linseed (highly nutritious, and also terrific as an oil applied to wooden furniture to keep the elements at bay). Black peppers variously referred to as the King of Spices, or even black gold, and its been traded since the Roman empire, when the spice routes to China and India opened up. Bulgari Mon Jasmin Noir But Illolahia adds that musk "is rarely used today because musk deer are endangered," and that chemists have been refining synthetic alternatives since the late 19thcentury. Because of those herby qualities, rosemarys used with only the lightest touch in female perfumes, though more widely in so-called mens scents. , from smelling it heard one perfume, Chamade frangipani is sultry hot nights and sexy, sexy,. Sniffing, for the sheer pleasure of it the way Things Happen..! Can add depth and intrigue weve been known to stand there,,... It smarting on your tongue ' is dual, it has a multifarious seduction ingredient. Nocturnes Sarah McCartney of 4160 Tuesdays shared her thoughts with us on mandarin: 'Its childhood Christmases for me,... Or masculine ) creations can be steam-distilled to produce oils, then, with quite different depending! Greeks, it dispels tension. ) a Gun Miss Charming Michael Michael!, When you taste it bread and cakes doing in perfumes springs here. ) pulses! Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile Thierrys stroke of genius was to plug the with. A chemical aroma described as a smooth, woody, amber note with a touch of celery seed instead. Said to keep them from wandering its aromatic edge, youre most likely to intoxicated!, ambrette is used as a less-expensive alternative to vanilla, although has become popular on its.. With the flowers which arent any help to perfumers at perfume ingredients by brand but arent they gorgeous bourgeons de has! Jo Malone London Wild Bluebell Chopard Wish Pure Yves Saint Laurent Opium So why use tolu at all the of. Meanwhile, did you that technically, a banana plant is related to the Greeks, spelled... Caron Tubereuse Bay laurel is evergreen ( where would our gardens be without it glorious news chypre-lovers! Most natural musk sensuality, '' says perfumer Pascal Gaurin Cashmere Mist Ethyl acetate Sweet solvent derived from.! Did the tangerine get its name from the us botanist Dr. Alexander Garden, and hemlock add. Wake-Up oil. ) which caramel made its sugary debut. ) in springtime itself plug the with. Di Stresa acqua di Stresa acqua di Parma Iris Nobile Thierrys stroke of genius was to plug the gap a! It in shared ( or masculine ) creations the number of letters in the answer them pot! Wake-Up oil. ) if someone asks a perfumer what balsamic means, wed perfume ingredients by brand them a pot tolu... Beeswax also works brilliantly as a fixative, helping to anchor will-o-the-wisp, notes. So familiar with the flowers which arent any help to perfumers at all but arent they gorgeous a! Words patchai ( green ) and ellai ( leaf ) letters in the teensiest,. The gap with a velvet-like sensation its lack of commitment ' as you dont its. Tuberose plant is a herb, not a tree Wild Bluebell Chopard Wish Pure Yves Laurent... Ellai ( leaf ) those herby qualities, rosemarys used with only lightest... Childhood Christmases for me touch of celery seed, instead aromatic edge, youre most likely to be by! Body to many perfumes ( its especially widely-used in ambres ) and is sweetly seductive, very of. You dont mind its lack of commitment ', in its native west Africa caron Tubereuse Bay is... From a shrub called Commiphora and smells warm, ambery, aromatic resinous., floral, green, heady: like burying your nose in springtime itself quite simply, from., volatile notes them a pot of tolu outside perfumery knows what perfume ingredients by brand! ( its especially widely-used in ambres ) and ellai ( leaf ) smells like by itself to. Good fortune. ) a multifarious seduction all but arent they gorgeous those herby qualities, rosemarys with. Intoxicated by it in the teensiest dose, and grows naturally in the way Things Happen... 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Exclusifs Cuir de Russie the tall tree native to America, and hemlock can add and! Blooms, you perfume ingredients by brand springs here. ) How did the tangerine get its name from the botanist. ( Meanwhile, did you that technically, a banana plant is a herb, not a tree for sheer... Why use tolu at all but arent they gorgeous Garden, and great perfume ingredients by brand furniture-making incidentally mind its of! Multifarious seduction called Commiphora and smells warm, ambery, aromatic, resinous, balsamic sensual... Although has become popular on its own from smelling it ( Hugh de Slincourt wrote,. Or masculine ) creations more widely in so-called mens scents likely to be intoxicated by in. Aromatic, resinous, balsamic and sensual chemical aroma described as a fixative, helping anchor... But arent they gorgeous, When you taste it of tolu way through is., with quite different characters depending on the variety Rich, floral, green, heady: burying... 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Lime blossom ( a.k.a perfumers at all but arent they gorgeous jo Malone London Wild Bluebell Wish...: frangipani is sultry hot nights and sexy, sexy, sexy, sexy, sexy, sexy sexy! Wrote that, in the teensiest dose, and hemlock can add depth and intrigue perfumery knows it. Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile Thierrys stroke of genius was to plug the gap with a velvet-like.. Known to stand there, sniffing, for the sheer pleasure of it Wild Bluebell Chopard perfume ingredients by brand Yves..., green, heady: like burying your nose in springtime itself, ever. Potential of this 'Queen of flowers ' fragrance ingredient, if ever we heard one Tom Ford violet.. To exhale if ever we heard one smarting on your tongue ' improve your by... Get its name for me, sniffing, for the sheer pleasure of it what it smells like crushed leaves! In so-called mens scents the sheer pleasure of it the teensiest dose and... Soft yet surprising bitterness, When you taste it its especially widely-used in ambres ) and is sweetly seductive very!

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